Carry a hand full of tools, be ready to catch it in the act.
Start with the spark, have an old spark plug with the electrode bent straight or broke off, put it in a plug wire and ground the base, start the engine and see if it will jump the gap. If no, the spark is weak, points out of adjustment, bad condenser(often bad out of the box), bad or wrong coil (it should not be too hot to touch), bad wires, cap, rotor. All ignition components are now poor quality imports. Often they are made wrong, boxed wrong, or slightly different. Don't assume new always means good!
There is a drain plug in the carb bowl. Be ready to quickly pull the plug and see what kind of flow you have. Engine off, fuel valve open, remove the plug and catch the flow in a clean glass if possible. You should get a continuous flow, not slow to a drip or stop. Look at what was caught. If contaminated with rust, trash, water, the same will be in the carb and tank. A fouled tank will cause ongoing problems.
If the flow is insufficient, start chasing the problem back to the tank. There should be a screen in the fuel fitting at the carb, another in the sediment bowl, possibly one standing inside the tank.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
... [Read Article]
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