Re: Cat D2 J, What do I need to know?

Posted by Janicholson on June 22, 2021 at 15:59:59 from (24.240.46.228):

In Reply to: Cat D2 J, What do I need to know? posted by docmirror on June 22, 2021 at 14:48:09:

Much depends on the soil conditions and vegetation. What is pretty steep to you may be a gentle grade to a Montanan. Drop
in feet in that 1/4 mile would tell us a lot. If the soil is undisturbed (not under cultivation or uncompacted fill) it
will be different than if it were. are there changes in the contour that make it steep in some places and flatter in
others?
Following is an example for a home driveway that will be used daily in mid usa (like Iowa)assuming there is 8 to 10 inches
of top soil with organics in it over the whole distance. Assuming the gradient has a basic flatness to the top 100 feet,
and then is moderately steep the remaining distance. Assume it also is on a clay base with alluvial medium small random
stones. Assuming also it will be 10 feet wide where tires will roll.
The first task is to stake out the location it will be located with boundary stakes. These will be placed about 30 feet
apart along the route, and 14 feet apart across. The 4 feet extra will be on the side of the road bed where a shallow
drainage ditch will be located. Using a transit, or level (laser or glass) mark the stakes where cutting into the subsoil
is needed, and fill required. two or three people with at least one knowing what is happening is critical with this.
Top soil is never acceptable under the lane, so assess where it will need to go. There will be a massive amount, and it
must be accounted for. Using it to create contours or garden plot or ? is best rather than the expense of moving it off
site.
With that planned, a dozer can only push so much, so starting at the end where the top soil will be used, cut into the soil
toward the pland location between the stakes. Try to stay centered as much as possible and keep the blade straight across
to push the soil in 2 to 3 inch cuts. This single width cut allows your blade to carry more in front of it because there
ar edges on either side. Cut down to the sub soil in a sequence of cuts in that same cut all the way to the opposite end,
or where a second storage pile for topsoil is to be found.
Next clean the edges out to the stakes, again pushing to the deposit site/s. The cut and fill needed should be done next,
pushing the subsoil from high spots into low. Drive over the fill with the dozer and vehicles to compact it.
Contour the dtich, and the road bed so the sub soil is just slightly lower across the 10 feet toward the 4 foot od shallow
waterway. the waterway/ditch should be 4 to 6 inches deep, not a nasty trench. next is rock. The lowest base should be 1
to 2 stone on the lane, and 2 to 3 inch in the waterway. This should be about 6 inches thick, and driven on and smoothed
out to be even. 3/4 inch road base with fines is next, only on the lane, not the waterway, using enough to create the
desired surface probably more like 3 inches. Again compact it (a roller is best here!). the top should be crouned where
there is no waterway, or very slightly slanted toward the waterway.
There is radical differences of opinion on the proper way, but this is a start.
If this is just an access lane with very occasional use in good weather much of the detail is not needed. But removal of
top soil is really necessary to make a real road. Jim

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