Disconnect all the G.P.'s and connect an ammeter capable of reading 20 Amps to the (+) battery post and momentarily touch the other lead to the terminal on each G.P..
If a given G.P. is OK it will draw in the 12 to 20 Amps range, all should test about the same.
If "open", (of course) there will be no current draw.
TYPICALLY they will test pretty close to each other (if made by the same manufacturer), most either work properly or not at all.
Alternately, if no ammeter is available simply connect a wire to the battery (+) and brush the end past the terminal on each G.P. and note that there's a similar small spark at all the ones that are good/drawing current.
No matter how you test them do not apply power for more than a few seconds, once the overheat they can blow open making removal difficult, or even break off and fall in the cylinder.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Your Tractor - by Staff. Maybe you bought it from a friend who didn't know what kind of tractor it was, or perhaps (and this is every tractor fanatics dream) you stumbled across it in an abandoned field covered with weeds but intact. In any case, you have no idea what the make and/or model is. For awhile perhaps it doesn't really matter. Especially if it runs! But pretty soon you'll probably need to tinker with it a bit and maybe buy a part or too. Having a manual is nice. But how does one go about dete
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