Separate the voltage regulator points same time you open current regulator points. If it still charges field is finding ground other than through the units. Probably that insulated end of the resistor but hard to tell.
At any rate, you should be adjusting the voltage regulator unit for voltage and then and only then adjust the current regulator for what system is rated at. Probably about 30 amp range, just guessing as I am real sure that generator was never rated at 50 amps. Hit for near 7 volts if possible.
At any rate, if it does not charge with field wire unhooked from regulator you know regulator is at fault as I see from your checking you have already decided.
Do the ohm meter test again on that field terminal with points blocked open, wire unhooked. I would say, from the looks of that regulator, corrosion has just eaten through insulators.
Those three unit regulators were very good in their day. Far superior to the two unit ones that combined current and voltage regulation in one unit.
Years ago, I have taken the points out of them so I could do a good job of polishing them. Even replacing them, (the one that you can take off) with different one. Also have to set armature air gap to specs when removing and replacing the parts. Normally the current regulator points don't wear much as they only come into play if using more accessory load than they are set at or if totally dead battery.
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Today's Featured Article - Updatin The Charging System of Your Older Tractor - by Tyler Woods. Older tractors have externally regulated generators or externally regulated alternators, in some instances. That means there is one device that turns energy from the fan belt into electrical energy,
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