Have a look at this link about mid ways he explains the top stop injector settings, maybe it will be of some help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oib4ZFGlmgc I got fast talked into putting a set of injectors into a 350 that some one else had been tinkering on, it would run but no power and some white smoke of course it just started this all of a sudden, I pulled 2 injectors at random both of which had a bad spray pattern, sent the owner after new ones and he was told buy the parts man the old ones were the wrong size for that engine.?? I didn't argue that point as I just wanted to get them changed to see if what I had found was the problem. Started turning the engine to the A mark and as I watched the injector rocker go down it didn't stop as I passed the A position I backed it up tried again and had to turn it pass the A mark about 1/2" for it to stop moving, A,B&C all did the same. So I asked his employee helping me what he thought of the situation, he said turn them till they stop and torque them down to 72 inch pounds. Which I did and it fired up and ran good, next morning I went to settle up with the owner and the truck was there running he asked if if the engine sounded ok to me, to me it did I asked if they had used it yet, he said yes it's just back from delivering a load of logs to the mill no complaints, that was along time ago and with as little experience as I had at the time sometimes I still wander if that was done right.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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