Just realized I'm wrong on my sizes cause at Oreillys last night I was screwing the sender into a bolt gauge which was 3/8" size then the Oreillys guy said something about a 3/8" pipe tap. Technically I think the oil sender is an 1/8" so I would need a 1/8" pipe tap and the block drain valve was 1/4" British so I need a 1/4" tap.
I have an adapter for the block drain but I just as well tap it out. I ran a 1/4" left hand drill into the old block drain and it just cut a little leaving quite a bit around it. Think I could carefully drill out that aluminum. The block drain is about half way down just under the head but above the cam which is above the crank. It is probably only about 3 inches below the present sender. Guess as long as I know it could be a little low, I can deal with that. Either way, when the heat starts to rise above normal, I'll know it.
Bob, I haven't ever used McMaster Carr. First go to has always been Amazing and fleabag.
That darn oil gauge came with this 1/8" plastic line with compression fittings. The male end sticking out of the gauge takes a compression nut thread. I'd like to go bigger so I can use copper tubing. Oreillys and Ace didn't have it. Now I see if I make a road trip I can get it at Napa.
Good thing my labor is cheap as I've spend more time on this little project than it should take for an American tractor.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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