I don't put any faith in the position of end gaps.
There is nothing to hold them, they are free to rotate wherever they want. I know, stagger them in installation, but what happens when it is running?
What is important is piston skirt clearance, round, ring end gap, land width clearance, pin clearance, everything you would normally check on a rebuild plus any weird manufacturing defects.
I once bought a new, from the dealer, 250 chevy 6 block with pistons and rings. The pistons had to come out to have the pins pressed. Pushed all but one out, it had to be hammered out! Press fit in the block! Sent the whole mess back for another.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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