Update. Got my two injectors back from the shop. $276. 70 bux labor for each one. 25 bux each for the nozzles. 20 bux each for the used nuts. 10 bux for a shim kit. 30 bux for special part freight, supplies, and new return hose.
It was hard starting, always put out white smoke even after running an hour, and some wet stacking where there was black liquid gunk showing up on the exhaust flapper. Plus it would throw out some wet particles that land everywhere and leave a stain when wiped off.
Was told that white smoke and the wet stacking and the little particles is an indication incomplete combustion of the fuel. The seals were ate up and disintegrated under the nut. That allowed combustion to leak by the nut and fuel would appear there when trying to start it. The leaking combustion ate up the bottom of the nut as shown in the picture. One nozzle was cracked at the bottom and neither one would spray right. They tried to clean them up but ended up replacing them and the tips inside.
They use a Zep brand cleaning fluid for 65 bux for 5 gallons that they have found works best for cleaning off old paint and carbon. They still had some original paint on them so we figured they were the original 42 year old injectors.
They recommended get some wire brushes to put in a drill to clean up the threads in the block to get the carbon out so it doesn't do it again. Those were 7 bux each as I also got one for the glow plug holes which had a lot of carbon in it. First used a pick and magnet to clean out the threads. The seal pieces came out with the magnet. Used a little ignition file to clean out some carbon then wire brushed them real good and blew them out. One hole had a little groove wore in it but they said if the new seal covers it then it should be ok. They recommended vacuuming out the holes before install or at least crank it over some to blow out any carbon particles in the cylinders.
Also recommended anti-seize on the threads. Put in the new seals and torqued down the nuts to 40 lbs. using the arm strong torque end wrench since my 1 1/16 or 27mm deep sockets weren't deep enough. They had the nozzles torqued in just right so you can't use them to screw in the bottom nut. With new seals the nuts end up being up a few threads above the head. Since that one side had a disintegrated seal, that is why I could screw it on down as I mentioned in my post above.
So put them in, replaced fuel filter, and cranked on it hoping it would start easy without glow plugs or engine heaters at 40 degrees. Had to bleed it a second time and it ran for 5 seconds and quit and then the battery was low. Tried again yesterday at 40 plus degrees with the hose and pan heaters on all night. Glow plugs for 30 seconds and it took off after 45 seconds of cranking. Ran great with clear exhaust smoke. So I learned a lot here.
Next step is to pull the valve cover and check the valve lash since it probably hasn't been done in 42 years. Have to find the procedure. Might be a spring project but if still hard starting I could get a valve job on this little 2 cylinder ford 1500 to help with the compression. Not really wanting to do a ring job. May have to consider a bigger battery as well.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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