Remember it is one thing to chain it down so it doesn't move if you have to slam on your brakes.
You also have to pay attention to the center of gravity. A top heavy object will try to flip over if you take a corner too fast. On the front if there is no good way to hook a chain in the frame rail, then I would hook a chain around the top of the center post then go over the bolster in front of the radiator and then to the opposite corner. Hook another chain around the post and go the other way. This way you are getting more leverage higher up on the tractor. Think of how easy it is to trip someone at the ankles compared to grabbing them around the waist. The tractor may not be too top heavy but that front end is where I'd worry the most.
I would chain around a rear axle by the wheel and go to the opposite corner. Same for the other side so the chains criss cross and don't have to go around the tires.
With tires that flex, it is hard to boom them down tight but if you need to you can use a second boomer to get another bite and alternate.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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