If the muffler is clogged, the oil ratio is probably too rich, or the quality of oil is low, don't use marine/outboard oil either. Muffler clogging is really a thing of the past, back when oil quality was low and they used rich oil ratio's to compensate low quality of oil. With modern, higher quality oils and a mix ratio of 50:1, it seems almost impossible this would happen. Fuel left in the saw will evaporate, leaving the oil behind, same thing can happen in a fuel can too. This will make the oil ratio too rich along with gas going stale.
Cleanings options:
Take muffler off, use a torch to cook the carbon/oil to ash, or throw in a fire.
Soak in a strong solvent or carb cleaner, use pics or small screwdriver to scrape gunk out.
Then use compressed air and a blow gun for final cleaning.
This might help in starting. Prime bulb 5-7 times, pull choke lever out (don't touch throttle lever) try to start it (1-3 pulls or, 5 pulls max if real cold). If it sounds like it tried to start, stop pulling, and push the choke lever back in (don't touch throttle), now pull to start. Let engine run at fast idle for 20-30secs, hit throttle to return to idle. My homelite saws always need the choke lever pulled out and pushed back in unless the engine is hot and recently shut off.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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