I have built 3 forks for tractor already. Not hard if you weld but you say you don�t. You are better off taking 4x2 heavy tubing for the sides and 4x4 for the bottom and top Frame is 2 inches wider than Loader arms. And bottom is 4 inches more than the height of bottom of loader arm to top of where your tilt cylinder is mounted on buffet. So approximately 42 inches by 20 inches. In the 4x4 tubing you cut holes and weld in bale fork holders. Mine are always 36 inches outside to outside. You need 4 1/4 inch steel plates. I use 5 inch They need to be the height of frame. You need the correct size holes drilled through the plate for loader pins and tilt pins Same distance apart as bucket. Weld onto frame. I always drill tilt holes closer to frame than loader arm holes so when all the way down I still can tilt up a bit. I buy the bale forks and holders here for about $125 each. If I was you I would buy what they call a universal mount bale fork as it adjusts to your loader with no welding or drilling.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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