I have built 3 forks for tractor already. Not hard if you weld but you say you don’t. You are better off taking 4x2 heavy tubing for the sides and 4x4 for the bottom and top Frame is 2 inches wider than Loader arms. And bottom is 4 inches more than the height of bottom of loader arm to top of where your tilt cylinder is mounted on buffet. So approximately 42 inches by 20 inches. In the 4x4 tubing you cut holes and weld in bale fork holders. Mine are always 36 inches outside to outside. You need 4 1/4 inch steel plates. I use 5 inch They need to be the height of frame. You need the correct size holes drilled through the plate for loader pins and tilt pins Same distance apart as bucket. Weld onto frame. I always drill tilt holes closer to frame than loader arm holes so when all the way down I still can tilt up a bit. I buy the bale forks and holders here for about $125 each. If I was you I would buy what they call a universal mount bale fork as it adjusts to your loader with no welding or drilling.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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