I have built 3 forks for tractor already. Not hard if you weld but you say you don�t. You are better off taking 4x2 heavy tubing for the sides and 4x4 for the bottom and top Frame is 2 inches wider than Loader arms. And bottom is 4 inches more than the height of bottom of loader arm to top of where your tilt cylinder is mounted on buffet. So approximately 42 inches by 20 inches. In the 4x4 tubing you cut holes and weld in bale fork holders. Mine are always 36 inches outside to outside. You need 4 1/4 inch steel plates. I use 5 inch They need to be the height of frame. You need the correct size holes drilled through the plate for loader pins and tilt pins Same distance apart as bucket. Weld onto frame. I always drill tilt holes closer to frame than loader arm holes so when all the way down I still can tilt up a bit. I buy the bale forks and holders here for about $125 each. If I was you I would buy what they call a universal mount bale fork as it adjusts to your loader with no welding or drilling.
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Today's Featured Article - Two-Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. Whether for product liability or because the aftermarket parts and labor business is lucrative, this concept is disturbingly prevalent. Fortunately when you step into your shop and make that jump 50 years back in time to work with your old tractor, this concept goes out the window. Even so, when it comes to the charging system, people quickly revert to this idea and start replacing the major components one at a time until it works. The reason you don't find any decals in your replacement set wit
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