If it's new enough to have electronics, timers, control modules, then it has to be checked with an amp meter.
All the electronics have the potential to have "time out" features, which need to have battery voltage to them in order to complete the timing feature, then the drain drops to a milliamp level.
To protect the meter, start out with an amp setting high enough to handle the worst case of a heavy draw, say 10 amps.
Be sure the doors are closed, everything off, hood light disabled. Give the time out enough time to complete, 5 minutes or so. Have the meter in place between the battery and the load, remove the cable without breaking the connection, letting the amp meter carry the load. This is easier done away from the actual battery post.
If the meter can't read the load, start working down to a lower amp setting until you are in the lowest range or milliamp range.
The goal is around .05 amps, or 50 milliamps. It can be higher if it is a daily driver.
If there is an aftermarket alarm system or radio, that would be the first place to look.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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