Now that I have more time to answer your questions...
Compression ring end gap: Spec says .004" per inch of diameter. So a 3" bore would have .012" minimum gap, around .020" max. This is measured down toward the bottom of the bore, not up at the top where it is probably taper worn. The ring must be straight in the bore.
Skirt clearance: This is not critical on this old slow engine. Unless you get into having to have a piston made, don't be too concerned right now. Do look for cracks and galling.
Ring lands: Something often overlooked. They are somewhat important. The rings need to fit, not be sloppy up and down, or the lands worn tapered. If the rings are broken, good chance the lands are seriously worn. Sometimes they can be machined straight and a shim added. You will probably have to have custom rings made anyway.
Crank and bearings: Not sure, but it probably will have babbet bearings, no inserts. Those are usually adjustable by removing shims from under the rod and main caps. Be sure to keep everything together, the caps with the same rods, turned the same direction, rods and pistons marked to go back to the same cylinder, same direction.
Same with the main caps, keep the shims matched, number the location and direction if not already.
Cam and lifters: Keep the lifters in order, they need to go back in the same holes if you are reusing them and the cam. Never run old lifters on a new/reground cam.
Once everything is stripped down and cleaned up, all the moving parts will need to be measured and evaluated. If you have a cooperative machine shop, they can help you, if they will. You may need to do some searching to find a shop willing to get involved. If there us an antique car club in town, ask who they use.
If not we can walk you through it. You will need to identify the engine. Most are built by an engine company, not necessarily the tractor mfg, but back then anything is possible.
Take LOTS of pictures! Bag and label parts. If you have room, set up some tables to lay parts out on. Take pictures. Get some storage tubs to move the parts to when the table gets full.
You admit to being a rookie, so be careful. Get a game plan, think this through. It is easy to get overwhelmed and discouraged, so plan on finding some tough hurdles to jump. It's not easy solving some of the problems, especially with something this old.
Don't be afraid to ask questions and for help. There is a lot of experience and maybe some parts to be found here. Any information or literature, shop manual, parts manual, anything you can find, get it!
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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