Posted by Janicholson on August 29, 2020 at 06:15:00 from (24.240.46.228):
In Reply to: The DRIP posted by Redhot1 on August 28, 2020 at 22:25:59:
The three possible causes from your input so far include: !} water/carbon mixture from running short times never getting warmed up, and running rich at the same time. this is pretty normal. Tractors of the Ms vintage had no emissions control features, and were designed to operate from middle to full load for hours. this material will dilute with water while wet. 2}a leak coming from the valve cover, running down the cylinder head, past the manifold, and dripping. Use a clean piece of printer paper and catch a drip of engine oil from the lower oil level check petcock. then get a drip from your leak next to it on the paper. Compare them. if the same smell/consistency/and look, it is a valve cover leak. 3} if it is not coming down past the manafold, but lower, it could be a leak of gasoline washing oily grease from the carburetor. If it smells like gasoline it is.
I would not pressure wash it. I would lift the hood some on that side, sliding the muffler hole up the exhaust pipe and use a good light to see fresh material being emitted. and go grom there. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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