I have had a 310 for 50 years and changing those steering belts is a much dreaded every 10-12 year job that I have yet to do this fall so that I am ready to go next summer. At my age this is probably the last time I will have to do it.
On the 310 it is fairly straightforward but time consuming; it generally spoils a day. I start by loosening the main (vari-drive) and reverse belts, then remove the hydraulic pump and unbolt the bearing housing holding that end of the reverse/header drive shaft. Next remove the bearing housing at the outside end of the main drive shaft (the one with the large vari-drive peully on it). Then continue to dismantle the battery box, sheetmetal and related bracing that carry those bearings mentioned above to a point that you can remove the vari-drive and reverse belts and you are 75% there.
As Jim said, it's easiest to simply cut the old steering belts off.
Threading the new belts in over the remaining shafts and pulleys is a challenge but imminently doable. Where you will get stalled is in getting them into their final position. Although it may seem impossible, if you twist one side of each belt 90 degrees they will pass up through the gap between those big final steering pulleys. The final drive shafts have a 3/4" gap between them which is why one must twist the 7/8" belts to get them through.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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