The register output is 95F as is the cab as is the condenser coil.
I just bought the pump and tested it closed, not connected to a system. It pulled down to 30 instantly. The tractor manual specifies the total charge. If I drain the partially filled can connected currently I will be over the manual's capacity number. The system hasn't been open but for a minute or two and I have no cooling so there is no frost. I could still have a leak and that would be the reason for the 26 and not 30 or there was still some freon in the system boiling off.
I don't understand why the system isn't starting to respond to the 95% fill as it is. It's been a long time since I did much AC work and at 78 things aren't as sharp as they once were. I had a correspondence course in Heating, Ref., and AC, years ago and haven't done much AC work since...been lucky I guess. I do my own when I have a problem. Recollecting in autos over the years, when the charge would get low, the AC would put out cool, not cold air. This one currently puts out nothing.
I had a leak for quite awhile and finally added a popular AC leak stopper per the can's directions as I couldn't find the leak. The system has been acting funny ever since. So I replaced the dryer and am trying to understand where the system is in equilibrium at this point. I didn't want to add this info initially as I wanted help understanding the expansion valve operation to help in understanding if I clogged it when using the leak stopper. As it stands right now, I don't think I did.
The other part of it is I have been down the over charging road with this system before and I may have damaged the compressor in doing so. I would add freon and gauges would barely respond and all of a sudden bang, big pressure spikes on the high side. Bleed off some freon and they'd stop. Was looking for user info. on what to expect from the compressor in terms of acceptable pressure drop which I assume is linear with amount of freon fill up to 200# at full charge.
Adding insult to injury, I can't find an expansion component, be it a cap tube or expansion valve, as a separate item in the AC system parts list...may come as part of a replacement evaporator core.....ugh! A new compressor is 400 bucks and if I need it I need it but don't want to just throw components at this problem just to find out, oh it wasn't that.
If I don't get some more ideas on the two components tonight or tomorrow morning, I guess I'll add some more freon tomorrow and see what happens. I still feel that cooling should be a linear thing (until somebody tells me, or I read that it isn't) and having installed 95% of the service manual's listed max fill, sitting on 3 ½ cans and full is 3.89. I should be getting some kind of cooling and nada.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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