I would suggest a NH 69 or newer. Through model 271 would be the older, slower, but capable good machines to match your tractors. The 3xx NH balers are good of course, they might be a bit more load for a smaller tractor.
JD 24T is about equivalent, and the 3xx JD series are good but again a little more load on a small tractor.
I guess IHC 45 and 46 balers can be worth trying, but the other 2 colors tend to be more good er with dependably tying knots and still have parts around.
An issue is finding one of the older models that isn�t worn out any more, these old fellas have put through a million or more bales, they have seen their share of wear.
I�ve baled with the Farmall H, and my NH270 baler, it works but the hp is on the low side and more so the issue is the non-live pto. It pushes both issues, enough but barely power, and you can�t stop moving and let the baler power through a heavy bit. You really have to anticipate ahead of time and double clutch before you need the extra push. You really need to know how to build a uniform even window to enjoy trying to bale with a non-live. It works but it is less fun. But as others say, millions of bales have been made with 27hp IHC and Ford tractors with non live pto it certainly can work.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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