There are very good reasons to use the same basic colors that were on it in the first place. It is easier to trace, stays readable for years, and is easier to construct. I use 2 sizes of wire. !0 gauge for all charging system circuits: gen/alt to amp gauge amp gauge to starter switch. I use 12 gauge for all other circuits. This is oversize, but reliability is more important than originality. It is also easier to strip and make connections/terminal ends than smaller wire. There are companies that can supply the colors needed in modest lengths on the net. Terminal ends should be rings that crimp on and then get soldered then a previously slid on shrink tubing is slid in place and shrunk. (get a small tubular heat gun Not har drier, not big 2000 watt blower either. It will be used for shrinking the tubing. Put a drop of liquid tape (really) on each connector to seal the open end of the terminal end. Don't buy terminals with insulation on them, it just gets in the way of the shrink tubing, and prevents soldering (mandatory). Make each connection 1.5 to 2" longer than needed, so there is no strain on the wires. Put new screws in place of rusty ones. takemasking tape and label each wire you take off with a sharpie. (both ends!!!) You can remove the original, and stretch it out on a 1X12 with 3/8 staples holding the ends. replicate every wire and that bit of extra. Good luck. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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