There are very good reasons to use the same basic colors that were on it in the first place. It is easier to trace, stays readable for years, and is easier to construct. I use 2 sizes of wire. !0 gauge for all charging system circuits: gen/alt to amp gauge amp gauge to starter switch. I use 12 gauge for all other circuits. This is oversize, but reliability is more important than originality. It is also easier to strip and make connections/terminal ends than smaller wire. There are companies that can supply the colors needed in modest lengths on the net. Terminal ends should be rings that crimp on and then get soldered then a previously slid on shrink tubing is slid in place and shrunk. (get a small tubular heat gun Not har drier, not big 2000 watt blower either. It will be used for shrinking the tubing. Put a drop of liquid tape (really) on each connector to seal the open end of the terminal end. Don't buy terminals with insulation on them, it just gets in the way of the shrink tubing, and prevents soldering (mandatory). Make each connection 1.5 to 2" longer than needed, so there is no strain on the wires. Put new screws in place of rusty ones. takemasking tape and label each wire you take off with a sharpie. (both ends!!!) You can remove the original, and stretch it out on a 1X12 with 3/8 staples holding the ends. replicate every wire and that bit of extra. Good luck. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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