Do what Steve mentioned, shut the gas off and clean the sediment bowl and screen and drain the carb. Now, what I am going to suggest takes some finesse; with the carb drained and the drain plug closed and the fuel shut off try to start the engine with he throttle wide open and no choke. There usually is enough gas left in the manifold and flooded engine to run the engine for a few seconds. If it does start and run for a few seconds and then die turn the gas back on for about ten seconds to refill the carb. Now, shut the gas back off and try to start it. The engine should start and run on the gas in the carb for fifteen seconds or so but while it is running turn the gas back on slowly and see what happens. If the engine chugs and smokes the carb is still running over and needs to be taken apart, if the engine runs OK you might be good to go but I use the word might literally. Sometimes the vibrations from the running engine loosens up the float and gets it working again. If you have a hole in the float or junk lodged in the fuel needle valve all bets are off.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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