You've already done the first step, running a compression test.
Next step is to get the valve cover off, look things over.
For it to suddenly lost all compression is a sign of a sudden failure, like a broken valve spring, stuck valve, seat come out, pushrod bent or broken.
Once the cover is off you can probably see the problem and determine if it can be repaired without pulling the head.
The coolant in the oil can be a head gasket, or it can be leaking orings at the bottom of the cylinder sleeves. I would suspect the orings if there were no other problems like overheating, coolant froth under the valve cover, or coming out the breather tube. Changing the orings is no small job. The liners will have to be removed and the bottom of the block thoroughly cleaned. If the rest of the engine is getting tired, might be time to do the whole job and be done with it.
If you are not going to replace the orings, and are taking the head off, be sure to clamp the liners down with bolts and flat washers. Otherwise they will ride up if the engine is turned. If any ride up, the seal will be broken and will for sure leak.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Winterizin Engines - To Drain or Not to Drain? - by Staff. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: "Winter is fast approaching..for a gas tractor should the gas tank be drained and run the engine til the carb is dry or do the gas stabilizer products I've heard of work? (tractor will not be used til spring) any other tips for winterizing?? "
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