yes that is true. I did not do a valve job on it. it had 3 stuck valves so I pulled the head and cleaned the guides out and cleaned valves and seats. things looked reasonably good. could use 2 new seats but I want to try this tractor out first. so many people say just loosen the valves by tapping then or prying them up makes no sense. the guides were full of rust had to pound them out and even tried putting them back in for my curiosity and they were stiff. I brushed the guides and cleaned them with brake clean. I gave the valves a light lapping just to make sure. then oiled the stems with atf. and now they are actually a little looser than I like. but it will run. will do a complete head job after I see if the tractor is worth it. my dad used to say hopeless case. he was strictly ih. when doing a new valve job no need to use the fuel test. valve seats are ground to 45 degree's and the valves to 44 degree's. this interference angle gives a good seal and no lapping is done. all lapping is for is to make sure the valve seals... its not for taking the place of valve grinding.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Your Tractor - by Staff. Maybe you bought it from a friend who didn't know what kind of tractor it was, or perhaps (and this is every tractor fanatics dream) you stumbled across it in an abandoned field covered with weeds but intact. In any case, you have no idea what the make and/or model is. For awhile perhaps it doesn't really matter. Especially if it runs! But pretty soon you'll probably need to tinker with it a bit and maybe buy a part or too. Having a manual is nice. But how does one go about dete
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