Posted by Fatamus on April 13, 2020 at 15:40:23 from (72.35.100.25):
In Reply to: Chain Saw Help posted by Dave41A on April 13, 2020 at 09:37:40:
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Some good questions.
All the wood had been peeled and seasoned then prior to installing they were soaked to expand the fibers. I eventually only used cottonwood in the wall and white spruce for the posts, beams, caps and lintels. The reason I used cottonwood was it has more random fibers as apposed to tree rings which can wick heat easier. Cottonwood is technically a hardwood and once properly seasoned it is hard to drive a nail into.
Wall:The wall is actually three walls in one, first off the logs are two feet long and set on a footer two feet by one foot thick w/ five strands of #5 steel 6-sack.
Mortar: The mortar is made with soaked sawdust in the mix to retard the set so it doesn't shrink away from the wood, that's also why the wood is soaked prior it installation.
On the footer I put a 6" x 6" berm of mortar on the outside perimeter and a like berm of mortar on the inside perimeter which left a foot or so gap between berms that I filled with limed sawdust. Once the mortar and sawdust were in place logs were placed about 3-4 inches apart. Rinse and repeat.
Alaska don't have termites yet but Cordwood construction dates back over a thousand years manly were used for out buildings and barns.
Excuse the bright reflection off the top of my head but the picture shows a little of what I've been talking about.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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