Mark B, I don't blame you for fixing up your Trek. A nice old steel bike is worth saving and riding. Anyway, in the past I worked part time in a bike shop as a mechanic for a few years and one thing we ALWAYS did to a new bike and one in for work/tuneup is to check the alignment of the dropouts, front and rear. They need to be parallel. If they are not it can set up stresses that will cause a dropout to crack/break and put strain on the axle. And make the quick release mechanism seem mushy. Any good shop can align them in about a minute with tools that clamp into the dropouts, shows alignment, and allows them to be bent into alignment. I bring this up as you have spread the rear triangle to allow a wider hub, (a common and acceptable practice), and if this wasn't done your dropouts will not be right. And not all shops do this as a regular thing. The higher the quality of the bike the more likely it is to be right from the factory but the quality level isn't a guarantee, they ALL need to be checked when new. At least that was the way it was 20 or so years ago. Suspension forks other suspension components are an exception as some you would to bend. Possibly you are aware of this as you seem into it. Enjoy your USA Trek.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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