Last year I bought a 1988 tractor with only 900 hrs in an estate (deceased) sale. What I found was sludge in the bottom of the engine pan where the contaminants in the oil had settled out due to non-usage. A little snake oil and a couple of oil/filter changes and the sludge was gone and the oil stayed clean. The other fluids I changed (didn't bother checking for sludge) and they weren't all that bad. Contaminants in fluids will separate or settle to the bottom in long term sitting. Most fluids contain detergents to contain contaminants (and possibly other additives) in suspension. As a result, I try to run my seldom used tractors for half an hour about every month and that seems to keep things running for me. In short, I don't have a problem with it.
Other than the above, the only other thing needing attention were the wet brakes but a little usage and they quit making grinding noises (rust removal from parts not submerged in the oil sump) and the slight jerking smoothed out, and I had to slip the clutch a bit to get the rust worn off the flywheel. Again, not a problem.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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