I use high priced heavy seamless uninsulated crimp connectors and and a high quality crimper followed by High priced heavy shrink tube if I crimp. Otherwise I solder and use shrink. There is a time and a place for both methods. I used to do a lot of electrical repair on semi trailers exposed to winter salt. It boils my blood when I have to re-do cobbled wiring where someone used a cheap thin insulated butt connector without heat shrink where it sits in a bath of salt water from road salt. Most times the problem arises where some hack cut into good high quality factory wiring to add more unneeded lights to make the trailer look se$y. Then some time time later I am the one freezing my fingers fixing the problem in all the wet dirty crud that is hanging from the shoddy sagging wiring that shouldn t be there in the first place, and the corrosion has crept up i side the insulation. Sorry, this stuff sets me off on a tangent!
In the shop I have an extra long drawer full of high quality shrink tube In many sizes in long sticks. Another compartmentalized drawer is full of heavy seamless butt splices and connectors of all sizes. Of course I have several quality crimpers but a good crimper is only as good as the person using it. Oh and I will end the rant with a swear word that will get past the moderators. The word is SCOTCHLOCK.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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