When the power to the solenoid on the injector pump is removed basically it blocks off the fuel return, housing pressure goes up, timing retards and engine stops.
The same thing happens when the retainer ring breaks apart, a piece of it blocks the return fuel flow, pressure goes up, timing retards and the engine stops.
People then pull off the return line/check valve fitting and are able to limp along a while longer.
Now I am not saying this is what is happening on yours but it would stand to reason that a fuel pump with 5/16 or 3/8 lines feeding the injector pump that has a much smaller return line may have trouble keeping the housing pressure where it wants to be.
Have you tried running it with the fuel cap loose to rule out a plugged tank vent issue?
You mentioned that how long it runs before it acts up varies, does it do it sooner on hot days? (like when expanding fuel may already have built up pressure in the tank)
Those trucks will continue to run reasonably well with a faulty electric or mechanical pump until you would go to change a fuel filter and are not able to re-prime the system.
Try disabling the power to your electric pump and see if it starts.
If it does and continues to run for 5 minutes then you can rule out the pump sucking air into the system as the problem.
If it dies shortly after starting it would suggest you are fighting air in the system.
Dual tank selector valve can also cause grief on these trucks if so equipped.
If you are certain everything is fine in the injector pump then really what is left;
air or water in the system
inadequate fuel supply
blocked fuel return system
plugged, defective or intermittent electrical issue with shut down solenoid
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