That's the way I've always done it, torque the important ones, use some judgment and experience on the rest.
A couple things I would do on the manifold, prep the bolts/nuts first. Be sure they turn free, not bound up with rust. Replace any that are showing signs of rust pitting or the hex rounding off.
Check the manifold surface for flatness. You can carefully hit the surface with a large file to knock down the high spots and remove rust and flaking metal. Just keep the file flat and use even pressure.
Then after the first run up to temp, run them again. High temp applications tend to loosen as the bolts expand with heat and the gasket compresses.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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