The solenoid valve behind the carb, does it stop vacuum to the vacuum advance under certain conditions, as in only when in high gear? Don't know what they were thinking, but if so that is a performance/mileage killer.
Bypass it, take the vacuum straight off the carb, either ported or manifold, which ever runs best. If the distributor hasn't been gone through lately, take it out, disassemble it, inspect the weights, the pivots, the springs... All that stuff requires maintenance to stay right. You can buy weight kits, springs, bushings, adjustable vacuum advance, play around with it, it will make a lot of diference when it's right.
Q jet is the finest carb Detroit ever made! Fully tuneable, easy to understand. If it hasn't been adjusted for the headers, it's too lean. some thinner metering rods, bigger jets, different rod spring, lots of things can be changed to fine tune it.
Whatever you do, DON'T let anyone talk you into replacing it with a Holly! Gas leaking garbage out of the box!!!
If you are going to make this a reliable truck, something that is going to start after sitting a few months, look into one of the throttle body injection systems. They are great, easily tuned, better mileage, no choke problems or cold natured start up, much more compatible with ethanol gas than any carb.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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