Run it through a tying cycle by turning the flywheel slowly by hand. See that the bill hooks catch the twine. The needles are adjusted by the two bolts where they attach to the frame. Loosen one a bit, tighten the other a bit. The needle just touches the frame as it goes by. The knife arm should just touch the bill hook as it goes by. Those old balers sometimes won't make a tight bale without the knot coming loose. Might be an issue with the twine holder disc in that case. Like the others said, a manual is worth it's salt as without tying, all you have is a press. Might be an idea to replace the drive chain driving the knotter. A stretched chain will throw the timing off enough to break a needle. Make sure the plunger stop is free and doing it's job too. I learned a lot years ago by having the local dealer send down a guy that knew knotters. Cost a few bucks but saved more in the long run. Maybe you have someone in the neighbourhood like that too.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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