Run it through a tying cycle by turning the flywheel slowly by hand. See that the bill hooks catch the twine. The needles are adjusted by the two bolts where they attach to the frame. Loosen one a bit, tighten the other a bit. The needle just touches the frame as it goes by. The knife arm should just touch the bill hook as it goes by. Those old balers sometimes won't make a tight bale without the knot coming loose. Might be an issue with the twine holder disc in that case. Like the others said, a manual is worth it's salt as without tying, all you have is a press. Might be an idea to replace the drive chain driving the knotter. A stretched chain will throw the timing off enough to break a needle. Make sure the plunger stop is free and doing it's job too. I learned a lot years ago by having the local dealer send down a guy that knew knotters. Cost a few bucks but saved more in the long run. Maybe you have someone in the neighbourhood like that too.
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: Trailerin a Tractor, Chains or Straps? - by Staff. Another great discussion from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. The discussion started out with the following post: " I bought a trailer and plan to take my CASE VAS to some shows. I don't yet have anything to secure it to the trailer. So which is better to buy and use; the ratchet-type straps or binders and binder chains?
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