still having heavy valve tick sound unless engine is 100% working warm. I checked with stethoscope for fan hitting shroud, exhaust leak, timing gear noise, etc. Still sounds like valve tick. I pulled spark plug wires off individually, and engine still makes the same amount of valve tick noise even while running on 3 cylinders. So I'm thinking that eliminates piston slap, wrist pin, etc. I did notice that upon mild "throttle up" of engine RPM, ticking stops, upon pushing throttle closed and at idle up to about 1100 RPM still ticks, but seems to go away upon pushing "throttle up" for more RPM. Anything over 1200 RPM or so, no noise. I added lead additive to the fuel. Any ideas would be appreciated. I should have dropped a feeler gauge at tappet clearances, with the engine running, to see if I could nail down when valve it was, but I forgot to do that and put it all back together...pained etc.
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Today's Featured Article - Converting from 6 Volt to 12 Volt - by Chris Pratt. It's a common problem for old machines especially when the weather starts to dip below 40 and the tractor isn't fired up as often. You are probably used to the 12 volt Diehard, charged with 200 amp alternator of your 3/4 ton that always is ready and always starts. It's this type of experience that brings about the many queries we get for 12-volt conversion kits. Since only a few kits are available (we sell kits for the
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