Things look pretty normal. When cleaned to metal only, you will be able to see the wear. running loose will destroy the bearings, so be prepared for that. There are two terms that apply: spalling, and brenelling. Search for roller bearing spalling, and roller bearing brenelling in google images. Spalling is where the surface has flaked away from its foundation and left a pit, or pits. Brenelling is indentation of the surface from foreign material getting between the rollers and the races. (probably from spalled flakes!). Rubbing from being crooked also applies.and may be found on your bearings. Each race will have a code number on it stamped into the edge. these are industry standard numbers and allow you to buy new parts at a store like Motion Industries. The seal may be standard, or may be AC only, check with the bearing company. To remove the outer raced, you will need a long punch 10 inches long with a 1/4" tip. Use this to punch out the outer races from the hub. From inside out, you will find 2 slots that allow you to put a punch tip on the race. Alternate between these two slots working the race out of the hub. Then the other race. clean again. Put the new races into their recess, aiming the correct way (big size out on each). Use the old race as a driver with a brass hammer (you needed one any way) they will seat with a distinct sound change in the event. Grease up the inside till it looks like the one you took off using real wheel bearing grease (stringy goo acts like warm mozzarella)
Repack the bearings by taking a egg sized plop of wheel bearing grease and place it in the palm of your non primary hand. Holding the cone and roller (inside assembly with the rollers) so the big side is down, smish grease into the spaces between the rollers by pressing the assembly into the edge of the plop of grease and pushing that little scoop against your palm. Repeat and move around the bearing for 5 minutes or so till grease comes out the top side of each space between rollers. Messy, but satisfying. After the grease has squirted out all around, use more grease till it looks kinda like the picture you posted. Lay it aside and do the other one. Put the big bearing into the hub facing so the small end in inward, then put the seal into the hub using the brass hammer. Now coat the spindle with WB grease to look like your old one. take the hub and slide it on the spindle till it stops. Make sure the inner cone and roller is seated on the shaft. Pick up the outer bearing cone and roller and insert it, Follow that with one washer (should have a tab sticking out to the inside that goes in a slot in the threads. Put the nut on and tighten it while pushing the hub farther on. do not just crank it tighter, work the parts to assure it is going together, the clearances are tight. When you have the nut just barely tighter than finger tight, look at the back side of the flange to see if it is close to as far as it was running before. now tighten the nut a little more (about the weight of your new adjustable wrench sticking out sideways. remove the wrench, and whack the flange with the brass hammer toward farther on, and around the sides some. this seats everything and probably loosened the nut. Use the wrench as above and allow that torque of the hanging wrench weight to be your guide. Look at the cotter pin hole and you may tighten the nut only to the next aligned hole if needed, (no backing up!), apply the cotter pin, and bend so it does not scrape the new cap. Find a new dust cap and apply it to the hub. Check the tightness of the nut after a few days of driving it around. (no tighter than the weight of that wrench) Jim
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: The Saga of Grandpa's Tractor - by The following saga is from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. Someone. The saga starts with the following message: Hey guys I have a decision to make. I know what you all will probably suggest and it will probably agree with me way down inside, but here it is. I have a picture blown up and framed in my "tractor room" of a Farmall M. It was my Grandpa's tractor, of which whom I never got to meet. He froze to death getting this tractor out of the barn to pull a truck out of the ditch before I was born. Anyway my dad and aunt had to sell it at the auction,
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Sell 1958 Hi-Altitude Massey Fergerson tractor, original condition. three point hitch pto engine, Runs well, photos available upon request
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
