Grampa Love, let's assume the engine is willing to start, after you've checked everything out. You haven't said anything about it kicking back, so it sounds like the impulse is okay. The mag should fire a degree or two AFTER TDC at cranking speed. The impulse takes care of the timing advance after the engine starts. When the crank engages the jaws and you feel resistance, the crank handle should hang at about the five or six o'clock position. If it's at nine o'clock or three o'clock, it's working against you, and the crank jaw on the pulley is probably off by ninety degrees. Stand to the left of the crank, facing the radiator, grip the crank with your right hand, placing your thumb on the same side of the handle as your fingers. Now here's the trick- pull up SHARPLY on the crank, and continue to pull right up to twelve o'clock. The arc of the crank handle must cover about 180 degrees. It takes longer to try to explain this than it takes to do it, but try it a couple of times with the ignition off, and you'll get a feel for it. The long cranking arc can turn a "maybe" into a start. This technique also works on single cylinder British motorcycles. As one poster remarked, never stand in front of the crank like you were winding up the engine. I saw a young fellow at a tractor pull winding up his Massey-Harris this way. If the timing was a little off, or the impulse less than perfect, he was bucking for the nickname "Lefty"- or worse.
When a crank start engine is in correct tune, they start easily on two or three cranks. Electric starters tend to mask tuning issues- you just crank till it starts. You must be on a friendly and personal basis with a crank start machine. When they won't start, they lead to frustration and impure thoughts, but when everything is right, you can show them off and impress friends and neighbours.
A MM U model is a good starter and a heck of a tractor. It might just take a little tinkering. unc
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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