It can be replaced from the front without further disassembly.
Carefully remove the old seal, collapse it inward or use sheet metal screws to pull it out.
You'll need some type of driver to get the new one back in. A piece of tubing or pipe, something the correct size to hammer the outer edge of the seal so not to collapse the middle.
Oil the lip before putting the converter back in.
Here's the catch! Be absolutely sure the converter fully seats into the pump gear before trying to install the engine!
If it is not fully seated, and the bell housing bolts are tightened, it will break the pump gear and damage the pump housing. If in doubt, take a measurement from the front of the bell housing to the converter drive stud pads, and compare the measurement from the engine plate to the flywheel surface.
There are several Youtube how to videos on the subject.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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