ARM or GEN terminal on regulator should go to A (armature) post on generator. FLD terminal on regulator should to to F (Field) post on generator. BAT terminal on regulator should go back to BATtery via the dash connecting to switches and starter solenoid.
Logis says RH terminal with 12.6V should be BAT, Middle terminal with 14.8 volts would likely be the ARM/GEN post. 14.8 v indicates generator is charging, 12.60 indicates charge is not getting to battery. Likely problem is the cutout in the regulator is either not closing or not contacting.
You might be able to clean the contacts for a temporary fix. The purpose of the cut out is to connect generator to battery when charge voltage is greater than battery voltage and disconnect generator when output is below battery voltage.
If the regulator proves defective I would seriously consider switching to a Delco 3 wire internal regulated alternator. Alternator will be no more expensive than replacement generator regulator and will be more dependable. Get a 3 wire alternator since you already have charge light. BAT wire on old regulator to output of alternator. #2 pin on alternator to output, and #1 pin on alternator to generator end of light which should be connected to ARM post. Would also be advisable to run #10 wire from alternator output to switch connections and on to starter solenoid.
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Today's Featured Article - Bad Vibes - by Curtis Von Fange. One of the strangest ways to communicate with our tractor is to ask it how it feels. "Ask it how it feels," you say? Yup, ask it how it feels. Now, as with the other articles in this series one has to be able to hear what 'ole blue' is trying to say in response. The nice thing about our old iron friends is that they are usually quite consistent in their response, rather unlike some people I know who might change what they say due to the weather or other mitigating circumstances. But since t
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