Unless it's broken up inside the plug, even then usually they can be repaired by replacing the wire terminal.
If the actual wire is still intact, not broken or burned in to, that is probably not the problem.
Easy enough to test the alternator, start it up, bring the RPM up, check the voltage across the battery. It should be up around 14 volts. If down around 12v, it's not charging.
Also check the belt tension and for wear. A simple test, try to turn the alternator fan with your thumb. It should be near impossible, or turn the engine instead of slipping. If the belt is loose and worn down into the bottom of the pulley, hard and glazed, it will need to be replaced.
If there is no charge, check for voltage at the back of the alternator. The large stud should have battery voltage at all times. The smaller 2 (a guess, not knowing the type alternator) should have voltage with the ignition on. Some alternators have a ground wire. It will usually be under an uninsulated stud, it will not have voltage.
If you still don't have charge, take the alternator off and get it tested at the auto supply. If bed they can likely match it up with an automotive application, way cheaper than going to the dealer!
Also take the battery in, have it load tested. A bad battery, having to jump start, can damage an alternator.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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