With modern no-lead fuel, and crappy metal valve seats, checking and adjusting the valves lash has become real important on the air cooled. I don't use one regularly but I have a Manx style buggy that we use at the lake house to get around. I have a 1835 with dual port heads, and I'm careful to adjust the valves every year(maybe 1500 miles?).
There's another option called swivel ball foot adjusters. Fairly cheap upgrade, and the adjustment is a bit tighter so that it doesn't clatter, and change geometry quite as much.
You may have burned a valve if they got too tight and kept driving. This will show up quickly in reduced compression. Thankfully, it's a fairly quick fix. If you want to test, get a leakdown compression tester, and set it for 80PSI on a warm engine. Do the leakdown, and listen where the air is coming from. Typically in the exhaust but can also be the intake. Pull the head, have it reworked, and insist on heat treated seats, and new guides. The guides without lead in the fuel tend to hog out, and of course this also causes seat and valve face wear.
Good luck. If you don't want to do the fancy leakdown, you can use an air compressor with a rubber nozzle on it, and apply pressure to the plug hole.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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