A 1650, 1750, or 1850 would serve you well. All are simple to work on. If you can find an 1850 in decent condition for $4500, grab it, get out of there, and never look back in case the guy who sold it has second thoughts. I paid $5500 for the one I bought and figured I got a good deal. Parts are readily available for all three. We had a 4020 and a 1650 on our farm. Traction-wise the 1650 would pull anything the 4020 would on dry ground and was better in muddy conditions. Which makes sense since they weigh about the same. I'm not knocking a 4020, but they are over priced and much more difficult to work on than something like the Olivers. The hyda power/hydraul shifts are very reliable, also. All of the suggestions below are pretty good choices, too.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let’s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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