A 1650, 1750, or 1850 would serve you well. All are simple to work on. If you can find an 1850 in decent condition for $4500, grab it, get out of there, and never look back in case the guy who sold it has second thoughts. I paid $5500 for the one I bought and figured I got a good deal. Parts are readily available for all three. We had a 4020 and a 1650 on our farm. Traction-wise the 1650 would pull anything the 4020 would on dry ground and was better in muddy conditions. Which makes sense since they weigh about the same. I'm not knocking a 4020, but they are over priced and much more difficult to work on than something like the Olivers. The hyda power/hydraul shifts are very reliable, also. All of the suggestions below are pretty good choices, too.
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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