that's your best defense (dispite other comments) to slow the salt reaction down. even though its been south for a couple years it could very likely still have salt in places
washing REMOVES much of the salt and what it cannot remove completely (nooks and crannys) it can at least dilute. as others mentioned wash the underside well. try to get water into open spots in the frame structure to flush/dilute the salt out and use plenty of clean water. We have automatic car washes here and the mid-upper wash options include undercar pressure washing. in the spring i take the cars into the self wash bays and just wash the underside (best i can) with the wand and then go thru the auto wash to get the salt off for the summer. i would also wash under the hood too but be careful not to really wash the engine. just try to get any of the viable body parts. you don't want to get water in connectors, sensors, computers ect ect. but salt spray does get under there as well and just sits and rusts. open the doors and carefully wash the door sills and gently get a little water into the drain holes in the bottoms of the doors. NOW if you keep it out of salt you shouldn't have to go thru all that again.
when we were testing automotive parts it was very obvious the effects of salt. the concentration and the TIME that the parts were in contact with the salt were major contributing factors in how much our parts rusted. Typically we used a salt fog. no splashing or direct immersions. we even did tests that the parts were rinsed 1/2 way thru the test and it was amazing what a difference it made.
the make and model also makes a difference. not sure about hondas. my Dodge Intrepid and Chrysler 300M (both 19 year old cars) had very little rust even the Intrepid after handing down to daughters who NEVER washed it still didn't have major rust (stone chips were the only bad spots as to be expected)
our 2003 Chrysler Town & country van rusted out like crazy and it did get washed BUT not enough by my liking.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 5MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
... [Read Article]
Latest Ad:
Oliver 550 Diesel runs like a watch three point hitch pto engine gone threw about two hundred hours ago nice clean tractor
[More Ads]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
