Voltage regulators have been temperature compensated since the beginning , but, they didn't do a real good job. Modern way is with a temperature sensor under the battery mounting in the car and the computer does a real good job of compensating voltage.
We all know it takes more voltage to push a charge into a battery as the charge state of the battery rises. That is why a voltmeter will show a lower voltage at battery when being charged at a slow rate and that will continue to rise as the battery comes to full charge.
Also, the higher the rate you charge a battery, the more voltage it takes to push that charge into the battery and that is why when you start your car or tractor a voltmeter will go to the normally higher reading on your voltmeter because your alternator is capable of pushing all the battery will accept at regulated voltage.
A cold battery takes more voltage to push the charge in so that is why the regulators are temperature compensated. Also, a dead battery that has been dead for a while requires more voltage to accept a charge but voltage may come back down depending on amperes being pushed into battery. A regulator or computer doesn't know if battery is dead so it may not charge it at all because it will regulate at normal voltage settings
As far as blowing up battery, either dead or cold, it takes more voltage and if charger is capable of that higher voltage it will try to push that higher rate in causing much more agitation in battery thus more hydrogen gas build up. So, give it the spark needed and boom. Some times a high rate of charge will just blow up battery from pressure build up if no spark occurred. Seem many badly bulged battery. That explosion is normally not as violent though.
Charging is all about EMF and counter EMF. Electro Motive Force.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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