Been years since I had the 41 H. If I rember correctly we ran 85-90 gear oil in tranny and rear end. 140 is too thick for any time unless you are in area that is constantly at 100*F. Deere orignall called for the 140 but changed to the 85-90 because the 140 was not lubing things properly, too heavy to get into the bearings and things. Don't worry about the 85-90 leaking out, if you find any leaks just try tighting the bolts at that spot. Orignal called for non detergent as what detergent was out there at at that time was more expermintal and they wanted to have a known product used. The new detergent will be fine in the engine and hydrolics. And just use your favoirite engine oil from Walmart or any place like that as any of the engine oil is plenty good for that tractor. Use 10-40 in engine but I think I would probably use 10-30 in hydrolic but I think I might have used the 10-40 but my H left in 1984. The belt pully think is lubed from tranny as we in 35 years never checked it for oil and we did use the belt pully. The stearing gear needs same as tranny, some might leak out the bottom of gear but you do not want to go with heavier as that could make it steer hard. The air cleaner just use the cheapest engine oil you can find as it does not need to do anything but collect dirt. Pull the total air cleaner off tractor, you need to take hood off for this. There is a wire mesh in top part and it likely will be as least partly cloged with dirt. you may have to do a few times soaking and diesel would be fine for a first soak and use air hose to blow out clean but for final soak use kerosine as it does not leave the oily film as diesel does and on that mesh you DO NOT want any oily film to collect and hold dirt. A non oily parts washer solevent would also work for that. That mesh should be sqeeky clean and dry but you will not be able to get it that way. Don't overfill the air cleaner oil cup as if you do it will get drawn up into the engine where the oil does not belong. And also get a good grease gun with flexible spout and several cartrages of good gun grease as many fittings on that tractor. You may want to regrease the front wheel bearings as well and do not buy modern wheel bearing grease for them. get something like red and tacky or simular in name. The modern wheel bearing grease is made for disk brakes that the bearings run way hotter that any tractor wheel bearing and it will not hold up in the slow speed bearings. As for temp and thermostat I don't remember if it even had one in, probably as we had the engine overhauled at IHC dealer and dought if they would have left it out. Never ran either hot or cold and was used on light loads as well as heavy loads. The electric system is a 2 position for charge on the lite switch, low charge was for steady daytime heavy field work In the 35 years never ran it on low charge, always high charge with no problems. Then ther is a dim setting on the lite switch as well as bright setting that is still very dim and dim setting is about as bright as holding a candle would be. So always use high charge setting and if driving it at night use bright setting. This is for orignal 6 volt positive ground system. And if it has been converted to 12 volt I would not own it.
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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