IIRC, you are in New England or another state with colder weather? If so, you DO need to pay attention to more variables. Things are tougher up north.
Guys tend to fret a lot about motor oil, but for how most old tractors get used, almost all multi-weight motor oil today is vastly superior to what the tractors got back when new.
Biggest issue is picking an oil weight that will allow for easier winter starting and cold startup lubrication. Personally, here in MN, I go with 10W-30 or 10W-40 synthetic. That's good for down to as cold as I'm going to try to start/run an open station tractor. If I had to start a tractor often to clear snow or whatnot in the winter, I may even to got 5W-30.
If you can get gas with no ethanol added, do so. It just cuts off a whole list of potential problems.
Guys that say it doesn't matter are correct in that if you burn a tank of gas or more every week, you are using it faster than it will ever go bad. My use is a lot more inconsistent so I'm happy to pay a little extra for non-eth gas so that I know I'm not going to have wet gas and other issues that can be made worse by ethanol in fuel.
I can get non-ethanol (aka non-oxygenated) fuel at any number of places locally, so it's no trouble. If you cannot get it, that's fine, but IMO then be sure you burn your tank down to below a quarter before refilling. Cycle your gas, don't add new on top of old.
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Today's Featured Article - A Lifetime of David Brown Tractors - by Samuel Kennedy. I was born in 1950 and reared on my family�s 100 acre farm. It was a fairly typical Northern Ireland farm where the main enterprise was dairying but some pigs, poultry and sheep were also kept. Potatoes were grown for sale and oats were grown to be used for cattle and horse feeding. Up to about 1958 the dairy cows were fed hay with some turnips and after that grass silage was the main winter feed. That same year was the last in which flax was grown on the farm. Flax provided the fibre which w
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