First thing is that if there were enough wear on main, rod, or camshaft bearings, the engine would be knocking. Loudly. Oil pressure would be dangerously low.
So, having said that, I would say that the source of your brass or bronze is NOT from main, rod, or camshaft bearings.
To caterpillar guy: This engine does not use wristpin bushings. They are not used in any modern Ford engines.
Second thing is that using a quart of oil every 1000 miles is excessive. You should not be using more than a quart in 3000 miles on a normal engine. Your oil consumption is indicative of rings not seated or loose valve guides or bad guide seals.
There IS a bronze bushing under the distributor in the block that could be a possibility for the origin of the brass or bronze.
My (retired) professional opinion is that when the engine was rebuilt, bronze guides were installed or heads with bronze guides were installed. Brass in the oil is most likely from the machining from installation of bronze guides that was not cleaned out properly from the beginning. Early 351W engines were famous for bad guides. In the beginning, the dealers were knurling the guides as a repair. Later, they were boring out the cast in guides and installing bronze guides. After installation, guides had to be reamed to size for the valve stems, then the seats were centered up. Some guys (flat rate artists) were simply not cleaning up the heads after doing the machine work on the assumption that the bronze shavings were to soft to do any harm.
Also, be advised that just because you are told that an engine was "rebuilt" does not make it like factory new. There are varying degrees of what work might have been done in an "overhaul." A complete and proper rebuild returns an engine to the equivalent of factory new condition and is very involved and expensive.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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