Re: Looking for guidance on my first Allis overhaul!

Posted by Gordon in IN on November 14, 2018 at 20:18:33 from (184.19.46.171):

In Reply to: Looking for guidance on my first Allis overhaul! posted by jenmassey on November 14, 2018 at 17:45:29:

First: Pulling the cylinder head and dropping the oil pan is good advice so that you can determine just what damage is present.
Second: Just because the engine is "stuck" does not necessarily mean that you "NEED" a overhaul. You may be able to "UNSTICK" the engine if you proceed slowly and with caution. If all of the common and easy methods fail, you may be able to remove the
cylinder head, clean out any rust in the cylinders (to include lightly honing the cylinder bores). Then put penetrating oil in each cylinder and let it "soak" for a few days. Add more oil to keep the piston, rings, and cylinder "wet" with oil. Using a piece of 2 x 2
hard wood and s SMALL hammer, Tap the piston on the top of the piston on each side of the top of the piston. (Not on the front and back of the top of the piston.) You want to gently "ROCK or tilt the piston in the cylinder from side to side or rotate it slightly
about the piston pin. Do not want to try to bend the piston pin or bend the connections rod. Work on all the pistons in sequence, a little at a time. Once the pistons will tilt or "rock" a little, you can try to turn the crankshaft "A LITTLE BIT". Keep cleaning all
the cylinder bores to remove any rust or carbon. Once the pistons will move at all, keep oiling them and move them up and down a little at a time until you can get two of the pistons at the top of the stroke. Then clean and hone and clean some more, the
other two cylinders (the ones with the pistons at the bottom of the stroke). Once this is done move the pistons so that the ones in the clean cylinders are at the top of the stroke. Then, hone the other two cylinders (the ones that now have the pistons at the
bottom of the stroke). Clean, clean, and clean everything. You may be able to turn the crankshaft with the "hand crank" or you may have to have to remove the oil pan and "BUMP" the crank shaft with the 2 x2 hardwood block and small hammer to get the
crankshaft to freely turn. Oil bearings (Mains, piston rods, piston pins, camshaft and camshaft gear). Re install the oil pan and refill with motor oil.

Once the crankshaft will turn freely and the pistons will move up and down easily (with the cylinder head still removed), make sure that you have the engine oil is up to the Full level in the crankcase and with the tractor in "Neutral" Spin the engine with the
starter until you can verify that you are getting oil pressure in the engine. Insure that the valves, valve springs, valve guides, camshaft, tappets & push rods move freely and are WELL OILED. install the cylinder head with a new head gasket. Be sure to torque
the cylinder head bolts to the proper torque. Install the manifolds, carburetor & exhaust. Adjust the rocker arms (valve clearance to specs.). Double check everything, add some "chain saw gas mix" to the gas tank and start the engine.

This is just my approach, there are many ways and different details to do this job. This approach has worked well for me in the past. If anything does not "seem right" - STOP - and check and recheck it. It is cheaper and easier to find mistakes before they
cause major problems or destroy parts or cause injuries.

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