Don't confuse the parts store guy by telling him it's a "transaxle".
It is simply a "rear axle", or "driving axle", no "trans" involved.
Be aware that you need a press to shove the bearing in place on the axle shaft, then there's a retaining collar that goes on next to it.
Typically, the collars are heated before installation, then dropped into place on the axle next to the bearing, and shrink down and grip tightly.
What "style" is the undamaged bearing from the other side, a ball bearing or a tapered roller bearing, Ford used both types over the years. IF a sealed ball bearing, the other guy probably posted the correct number.
Dunno what they did with the spider gears, but ASSUME there's oil in the "pumpkin".
Ball bearing axle will have an oil seal INBOARD of the bearing, tapered roller bearing will have seal OUTBOARD of the bearing.
As to the retainer, GOOGLE "Ford rear wheel bearing retainer", and match it up with the style you have, Some on ebay, new and used, and MACS auto parts and Speedway Motors and the like have new ones, and they're not real expensive.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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