I have shined up many plows over the years, Expert? Nope but I can help you some based upon mistakes I made. Do not remove the rust with chemical rust removers, the rust down in the pits hurts nothing and in fact helps ease the dirt flow across the moldboard. If you have a 7" grinder great, if not a 4" will do but you need a flex backing for it that takes paper or cloth backed disks. You also need one very course grit disk for each bottom you want to clean up. I use the coarsest ones they have at the store, usually 36 or 24 grit. Starting out you work the entire moldboard down with the disk, do not concentrate on one area and dont fret about scratching The steel is glass hard and quickly dulls the disk and as that happens the disk looses it ability to cut it begins to polish. You quit when it feels slick when you run a gloved hand across it, not when it looks shiny as you will never get there, that requires using the plow. Replace the disk with a new one and go to next bottom. A 3 bottom plow would take me about an hour with my 7" grinder.
I am envious of the wide open spaces where you live!!
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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