A simple test, remove the drain plug, install a barb fitting, push on a piece of clear vinyl tubing. Turn the open end of the tube up above the carb. Turn on the fuel valve and watch the level rise in the tube. The level in the tube will be the level in the bowl. I'm guessing the level should be about 3/4-1/2" below the top of the bowl.
Has any carb work improved the running? Possibly there is another problem. If there is fuel in the bowl, and the main jet is open, the carb should at least function, maybe not run good, but enough to make further adjustments.
The revving could indicate a major vacuum leak. Another test, remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground it. Open the throttle, hold your hand tightly against the air horn of the carb. Have an assistant crank the engine through. You should feel a strong, steady vacuum against your hand, and your hand will be wet with gas.
If good vacuum and no gas, indicates clogged main circuit or no fuel in the bowl.
If no vacuum, or weak vacuum, indicates a vacuum leak or valve problems. If no vacuum leak, run a compression test, look the valve train over for stuck valves, bent push rods, broken springs.
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Today's Featured Article - Sunday Drives - by Cowboy. Summer was finally upon us here in Northern Maine. We have two types of industry up here, one being "Forestry" (Wood Products) and the other "Farming" (Potatoes). There is no shortage of farm tractors and equipment around here! I have been restoring old Farm Tractors for the past 6 years, and have found it easier and less expensive to hit all the auctions and purchase whole tractors for parts needed. My wife who works at a local school, and only has weekends and summers off, while on t
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