Ok, for all you 'experts' concern about running all the current up to the dash, into the ammeter and back to the loads, this is a fallacy. The only heavy current for the ammeter needed is the known resistance shunt bar. The tiny wires for the EMF sensing the current can be in the dash, while the shunt bar is anywhere you want.
The best setup would be the shunt bar just in front of the +batt terminal. With the key off, and circuit 30 and 15 not powered, the shunt bar would have no current flow, so no EMF produced across it to deflect the 'ammeter' in the dash. When the key is on, and the 30 bus is energized, there would be a very slight deflection to negative on the ammeter, showing the key loaded currents. AFter the engine is running, and the gen/alt is charging, it will show a slight + indication as the batt is charged.
So, there's no need for all that heavy wiring, just the wire from the batt to the loads needs to pass through the shunt which could be mounted anywhere, preferably near the batt. The current to drive the 'ammeter' remotely is in the microamps.
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Today's Featured Article - What Oil Should I Use? - by Francis Robinson. I keep seein this question pop up over and over again in discussion groups all over the web. As with many things there are often several right answers and a few wrong ones. Some purist I'm sure will disagree to no end with what I will tell you but most of us out here in the real world don't really care do we ? Some of them only bring their noses down out of the air long enough to look down them anyway. If you are like me you are only doing this old tractor stuff because you enjoy it. You
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