I'm no expert, but have shot some paint and more important, done the prep work. I suspect that was lacquer from the factory. and the main camper is fiberglass I think. For the best job it will need to have most if not all the old stuff stripped. I'd probably start with a buffer, not grinder with 80 or 120grit and get a lot of the paint off. Switch to 180, then 220. Then, shoot a good wet coat of epoxy primer. That stuff sticks to anything and all other finishes stick to it well. Before the recoat window for the epoxy expire, lay on the fist layer of urethane primer. Let that cure well and sand overall with a random orbit and 320. More primer and block well with 400 wet. Paint the whole thing with your base color. tape and apply designs one at a time. Good tape and application is key here!
Good paint jobs are all about prep work and are labor intensive. That's why most shops won't quote different stuff, it just becomes a money looser for them or antagonizes the customer. Any all over job will entail at least 40 hours,most many more. With shop rates approaching 100/hr it just isn't justifiable for most people.
That and the cost of paint. I can't even buy anything other than urethane locally. BTW, it I was doing a similar job, I'd use single stage urethane. Very durable, easier to shoot than enamel, cures faster (less time to gather dust and bugs!), readily available in several grades, clear not required(but optional) and much easier to repair if ever needed.
But, be careful of your health, two part paints or even your enamel with hardener should never come in contact with eyes, lungs or skin. Nasty stuff. I don't use a supplied air system that most recommend. Tyvek suit used with a full face mask with NEW properly rated filters has worked for me for years. It's true that the bad stuff is odorless, but the thinners are not. If you smell anything, stop. fix the problem. if the smell gets through so does other stuff. Others will likely disagree, and that's fine. I've done enough research to feel comfortable with that.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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