It may have already done some damage, but no way to know until the clutch is removed.
Possible problems:
Spin the end of the input shaft, cause the new bearing to not fit tightly on the shaft.
Spin the bearing in the end of the crank shaft.
Damage the transmission synchronizer rings.
Put excess strain on the input shaft bearing, and seal, and stress the needle bearing in the back of the input shaft, cause some misalignment with the countershaft gears.
If you do have to drive it, minimize the time spent holding the clutch with the trans in gear.
Try starting it in gear with the clutch down (if it will let you) instead of trying to put it in gear running. Just be aware it may try to take off even with the clutch down.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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