Aside from live hydraulics, either an 860 or 861 has live PTO, nearly twice the HP and is considerably heavier.
I have two VERY GOOD 8Ns which I still use for various purposes. My 51 and 52 8Ns both have Sherman combination transmissions and are in excellent condition. That said, they cannot be compared to either my 55 860 or my 64 four cylinder 4000 (same as 8*1 series) S-O-S.
If forced to choose between the 55-57 8*0 series or the 58-64 (yes, I know that the model numbers changed in 63) 8*1 series, I would choose the earlier 8*0 series. The later 8*1 series produced 4-5 more PTO HP, but it was mostly available in the high RPM range, which is of limited usefulness. The 8*1 series tractors also had larger carburetors. As a result, they used noticeably more gasoline at any RPM.
You can do nearly twice as much work in a given time with an 8** series tractor as you can do with an 8N, assuming matched equipment. The 8** series tractor will use more fuel per hour but not more (or at least not much more) fuel per acre.
All said, if you are only finish mowing, there are better solutions than either.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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